Helen Moat explores the estates of Lord Manners and Duke of Devonshire, enjoying the fruits of the land at Chatsworth Kitchen
1. Two estates sit back-to-back, one belonging to Lord Manners of Haddon Hall, the other belonging to the Duke of Devonshire at Chatsworth House.
Between the two, Chatsworth Kitchen at Rowsley serves up fresh food prepared from local farm produce.
This is a ramble that takes you through some of Derbyshire’s finest countryside.
Parking at Calton Lees (charge), continue along the road in the direction of the garden centre. The road curves round to a meeting of lanes.
Turn left, passing Calton Lees Farm, then climb over the wall (signed) at the end of the scattering of dwellings into a meadow.
Follow the field boundary downhill, crossing through it to drop down a wide grassy path to the flood plains of the River Derwent.
Cut through Bank Wood between two gates before heading along the farm track into Rowsley - slip a pair of shoes into your knapsack to change into at the upmarket Chatsworth Kitchen as the track is churned up and extremely dirty.
2. Having passed under the old railway line bridge, turn left into Church Lane and left again onto the A6.
Cross the River Derwent bridge and cut through the Grouse and Claret to Rowsley Outlet Shopping Centre.
Here, Chatsworth Kitchen offers beautifully presented breakfasts and lunches in bistro-style décor. Enjoy the old Chatsworth House signage and other paraphernalia from the country house.
3. Retracing your steps to Church Lane, continue straight up the hill this time. Tarmac gives way to gravel and stone but the path is wide and even.
The path heads northwest between Bouns Corner woods and Rowsleymoor Wood, part of Haddon Hall estate and out of bounds for the public. Soon views open out of the Derwent Valley.
Take advantage of the bench to catch your breath after the climb and drink in the views of Darley Dale with Riber Castle in the distance.
4. At a meeting of paths (where a concessionary path drops down through Manners Wood), take the narrow track that heads steeply up through a woodland of oak, beech, birch, firs and larch.
It’s stunning in autumn with the fiery needles of the larch, its fallen needles soft underfoot, equally so on a crisp winter’s day with a sprinkling of snow underfoot.
The path curves right through the last of the woodland, where you’ll meet wooden steps crossing a wall boundary.
Here, views open out to Chatsworth Estate, the lines of walls and trees below a valley of green pasture soothing to the eye.
In the distance, Russian Cottage sits tucked into the folds of Chatsworth Estate, a fairy-tale scene. The cottage was built from the design of a model gifted to the sixth Duke of Devonshire by the brother of Tsar Nicholas of Russia.
5. Cross over the steps and drop down to the bottom of the valley.
Follow the wall boundary left for a short distance, and go through the wooden gate, turning immediately right to follow another wall boundary.
Drop down to another gate opposite a Chatsworth blue sign informing the rambler the landscape has been left to rewild.
Go through the gate and head down through a sprinkling of Calton Lees houses painted in the customary Chatsworth Blue.
Continue down the lane through the green and pleasant valley, the song of the brook accompanying you back to the car park.
Tip: The farm track near Rowsley on the Derwent Valley Heritage Way is churned up and full of wet cattle manure.
Unless the ground is very dry or there’s been a hard frost wear wellies (with a change of shoes for the upmarket Chatsworth Kitchen).
Alternatively, drop down to the B6012 from Calton Lees CP, crossing the bridge to cut through the flood plain to Beeley before taking the footpath along the road into Rowsley.
COMPASS POINTS
Distance: 6.6 miles
Map: OS Explorer Leisure 24, The White Peak
Grid reference: SK258685
Difficulty: easy to moderate. There’s a long steady climb out of Rowsley and up to the top of Manners Wood.
Parking: Calton Lees Car Park (charge)
Refreshments: Chatsworth Kitchen. Booking advisable.
